Day One- Underway

 Schooner Spirit of Independence getting underway. Photo by Alison Elder.

Sunday morning:  We arrived at Tidewater Yacht Marina Sunday to a clear and sun shining morning to board the schooner SPIRIT OF INDEPENDENCE. The weather prediction was for clear weather with light winds and plenty of sunshine. Though perfect for cruising up the Chesapeake, not the best for hoisting sails and sailing the schooner to our destination- Baltimore, Maryland for the 22nd Annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race.

This year, the SPIRIT OF INDEPENDENCE crew is composed of Captain J.C. Waters and daughter/first mate Joy Waters, crew members Peter Youngblood, Anita Seidler, Allen Graves and myself Joe Elder, Walter Staniszewski, Joshua Harvey and Juliet Horan. After stowing away personal gear and the remainder of the groceries, and a review of on board details by the captain, we said our goodbyes to those that had come  to see us off including my wife Alison who has graciously supported my opportunity to crew and for her to stay behind and solely manage our business- Skipjack Nautical Wares & Marine Gallery.

We pulled away from the docks at approximately 9:30 a.m. and headed up the Elizabeth River, passing by the  familiar sites of the numerous blue-colored cranes that tower above the shipping terminals that border both the Portsmouth and Norfolk sides of the river. The Elizabeth River feeds into the James River and  Hampton River that make up the waters known as Hampton Roads to we passed by Fort Wool and Fort Monroe, two historic monuments that guard the confluence of rivers inside and into the wider spans of the Chesapeake Bay.

Plans of raising sails as we rounded the corner were delayed with only a slight breeze out of the northwest that was so light that raising the sails would only make them slat  and swing back and forth with each movement of the vessel, so we pushed on under the power of the Spirit's diesel engines.

A container ship in front of us on the Elizabeth River. Photo by Allen B. Graves. 

 A rather quiet day motoring up the bay led to an even less eventful afternoon. The usual shipping traffic on the bay, typically busy with large container ships was nearly void of activity and the light afternoon breeze died out to absolutely still lake-smooth waters. A light fog rolled in near sunset that produced an eerie, somewhat ghostly still view of the horizon that morphed the water to the sky making them almost indistinguishable from each another.  A brilliant sunset illuminated the edge of bright red skies until the sun passed beyond the horizon. "Red sky at night, sailors delight."

Passing by a buoy in lake-still water. Photo by Allen B. Graves. 

"Red sky at night, sailors delight" Photo by Allen B. Graves.

The evening watch is composed of two alternating crews. I was teamed up with Joy Waters, Allen Graves, and Joshua Harvey for the 8 p.m. to midnight watch and again from the 4 a.m. to 8 a.m. watch with the other members on the other. The shipping traffic continued to be almost non-existent and strangely enough, even the small boat traffic was gone as well. But still, watchful eyes is a non-stop responsibility of the watch crew to notify the helmsman of any potential boating traffic that may come into our path of passage or unknowingly coming up from behind and traveling at a much faster speed. As our watch crew was on, the alternate crew was for the most at rest only to be reminded each half an hour by the "ringing of the bell". Seven bells is the warning of thirty minutes to the change in watch and time to get prepared for the exchange...a great relief for tired and cold crew.

An interesting note- at approximately 9 p.m., Allen noticed what appeared to be distant fireworks off  the starboard side of the schooner. Way off in the distance, somewhere along the eastern shore side of the bay, a display of fireworks was underway. Miniature explosions of bright lights in red, green, gold and white was barely visible and continued until we were completely out of viewing range.

Sunrise silhouettes the Spirit's ships bell. Photo by Allen B. Graves.   

 The bright sunrise illuminated clear skies- a good sign for today's weather and as the ringing of five bells announced the new day as the journey up the bay continued. 

21st Annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race - A Retrospective by John Beauchamp

John Beauchamp aboard the schooner "Spirit of Independence."

With a budding interest in sailing and only a few days of training on a 2 person dingy sailboat, I took a leap of faith and signed on as passenger aboard the Spirit of Independence, stationed in Portsmouth, VA for the 21^st annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. My girlfriend, Esther Simpson, with even less experience, signed on to the voyage as well. We visited the boat’s home port twice before the race and were able to meet some of the crew that we eventually worked with on the race. We also had the opportunity to go through safety drills, learn about the rigging and quarters, and get a feel for the boat on the water. This helped build confidence in our decision as the Captain and crew demonstrated a thorough knowledge, a willingness to teach that knowledge, and patience with us through our learning curve. We also sensed the confidence each of them had in each other, the vessel, and even us. We felt very comfortable joining such a friendly and competent crew.

Schooner "Spirit of Independence" with the schooner "Lynx" during the 2010 "Parade of Sail" in Baltimore Maryland's inner harbor. Picture by Allen B. Graves

We boarded the Spirit, as we affectionately call her, in Fells Point, MD for our one way “race down the Chesapeake” to Portsmouth, VA. The weekend before the race, we dropped a car off in Portsmouth so we could have transportation back. We joined the Captain and crew in the early afternoon on Wednesday the 13^th of October, 2010 where the boat was tied at dock with many other schooners taking part in the race. The schooners all took part in a “Parade of Sail” that evening, gliding and showing off in the Inner Harbor of Baltimore. We had a wonderful dinner that night for all of the participants, at the Latin Palace, listened in on the race meetings, and sang some “sea shanties” (with much help of course) at a local Fells Point pub, the Wharf Rat. We felt welcomed and a part of the crew.

Following a final race administration meeting the next morning with historic “Town Cryers”, we took our turn to pull out from the dock and make our way to the starting line of the race near the Chesapeake Bay Bridge close to Annapolis, MD. The weather had turned cloudy and it began to rain shortly before we left the dock. We helped hoist the sails and prep the boat for the race as we left toward the starting line. Captain JC Waters had maneuvered the Spirit so we were one of the first boats across the starting line. It was still raining with 5-10 knot winds out of the north (an estimate of my own). Just after a very good start the winds faded to calm and we sat almost motionless with the other boats in the race. With what wind we had directly behind us, we spread the main and foresail on either side of the boat in a wing-on-wing set to maximize the sail area catching what wind there was. This worked very well and we made our way south, slowly.

 Port view taken from the deck of the schooner "Spirit of Independence" during the beginning of the 21st Annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. Photo by Allen B. Graves.

 Going below deck was not even considered at this point as watching the boats, breathing in the salty air, and enjoying the conversations of the rest of the crew was exquisite. The sun set beautifully as the rain faded to nothing. What a wonderful experience!!

"Spirit of Independence" ship's bell. Photo by Allen B. Graves

We learned the ringing of the bells to define the crew shifts. Esther and I had a dog shift from 12:00pm to 2:00pm, a normal shift from 4:00pm to 8:00pm, another from 12:00am to 4:00am, alternating every 4 hours throughout the race. Or at least that was the plan…

Esther and I had completed our 4:00pm to 8:00pm shift in light winds and moderate seas and felt part of an incredible experience with some great sailors and a wonderful boat. Knowing that we had to be up for the 12:00am to 4:00am shift I had a cup of wine (from a box we had brought aboard) and we went to our cabin and fell asleep. I truly slept solidly. We awoke at about 11:30 to lots of commotion, requests for eyes on deck, and a boat truly lurching in the water. We scrambled to put on our foul weather gear as we were knocked against the walls of our cabin. Lesson learned: Fasten down your foul weather gear around your neck, wrists, and ankles before you head out on deck. As we came on deck the Captain and other watch crew were wrapping up the topsail that we had set earlier in the day when the winds were calm. The seas were stormy with 10-12 foot swells (that is purely my own estimate), winds of 30 knots (again, mine), and salt spray and waves crashing onto the deck of Spirit. I took a position on deck to watch for other boats as we had come dangerously close to one while the crew was scrambling to keep the sails in order. We had learned later that Spirit had reached a new speed record for being under sail (11.2 knots); the auto pilot shut down not being able to calculate under those conditions; and the shift in course caused an unexpected jibe. The jibe of the staysail fouled the rigging of the jib. This series of events forced us to lower the staysail and jib in the rough seas and winds. Esther took over watch (on hands and knees) while I helped out with the sails. While the Spirit handled the pounding of the waves with ease, it was not so easy on the rest of us. In pitch black, boat lurching in every direction, waves pounding in on us, sails flailing in the wind, the Captain showed his metal. He helped and directed us how to lower the staysail, secure it and move on to the jib.

All of the crew was heroic in taking control of an extreme moment. We brought the sails under control, rerouted the Spirit toward the finish line, and sped on into the night.

Spirit crew tries to stay dry wearing foul weather gear. Photo by Allen B. Graves.

 My feet, chest, and shirt sleeves wet, we stayed our watch as the waves lessened to 6-8 feet (another estimate). The stars came out incredibly bright. Following a truly harrowing experience I felt exhausted yet renewed. This was one of those life affirming moments that make you understand what it is to truly participate in something great.

My shift ended sometime near 5:00 am. Wet, cold, and tired, I collapsed in our bunk and slept solidly again until the bell rang 6 times (7:00). I had my morning coffee and was on deck to watch the sun rise. A true beauty. 

We sailed across the finish line 20 hours 11 minutes after we started the race, more than a three hour improvement over Spirit’s time last year.

Once reaching Portsmouth we stayed through Sunday participating in the various events, dinners, and parties as were planned. We enjoyed sharing our stories of the race, talking with the other crews, and quiet calm nights aboard the Spirit of Independence.

On this trip we got much more than we bargained for. We gained a true appreciation for sailing and instead of making acquaintances aboard a sailing vessel; we made extraordinary friends with the family of the Spirit of Independence.

I was asked several times whether I would do the trip again. My response: "In a second."

My thanks to: J.C. Waters, Joy Waters, Jim Dyson, Allen Graves, Whitney Rayl, Faye Bailey, Peter Mulhern, Esther Simpson, and the Spirit of Independence.

John Beauchamp, passenger/crew/sailor

Schooner Racing on the Bay - A Photographic Essay of the 21st Annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race

As I sit here at my computer this evening writing this blog, I can honestly state that as soon as we moored the Spirit of Independence after finishing the race, if we had just turned the boat around and retraced the entire trip, I would gladly do it again without hesitation. What a fun time with a great crew, incredible boat, excellent captains - JC and Joy - terrific sponsors, and volunteers to create and incredible racing experience.

And I could easily write a book of information about our schooner racing adventures, but I decided to create a photographic essay instead so that you can look over our shoulders and experience our adventure though the eyes of my camera. So first I would like to introduce you to the captains, crew and guest for this year's Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race (GCBSR). We will start and the end, go back to the beginning and come home again.

Jim Dyson, Whitney Rayl, Capt. Joy Waters, Peter Mulhern, Ester Simpson, John Beauchamp, Allen Graves, Faye Bailey, and Capt. JC Waters soon after finishing the race with our race banner signed by all.

On Thursday morning in Fells Point the day dawned gray, and while the capt. and most of the crew went to the meeting in the town's square, I had to go to a coffee shop called Bonaparte to use their internet. No sooner had I finished forwarding pictures to Joe Elder at Skipjack Nautical Wares than the heavens opened up and it started to rain. Having no rain gear for my camera and computer bag, I borrowed a few trash bags from a local coffee shop. Back at the boat at our appointed departure time of 9 am, I stored my gear, put on foul weather gear and by the time I was up on deck we were well underway.

Looking through the windows in the pilot house aboard the Spirit of Independence. Navigation station shows position, radar, depth and a view from the video camera looking toward the bow.

By the time we got below the Bay Bridge at Annapolis we began to set sail to be ready for the appointed start time of 13:40 hours.

Setting sails in preparation for the start.

Schooners soon after the start of the race.

Schooners after the start seen across the deck of the Spirit of Independence.

Soon after the start the wind died, we slowed and soon showed a speed of .1 knots. After about an hour, or so we were still within sight of the Bay Bridge near Annapolis.

South of the Bay Bridge after the race start, a moored commercial ship and schooners spread out across the bay.

Fortunately the wind picked up again and we sailed in rainy conditions with dark sky's and incredible views of other schooners in the race.

Schooners sailing in the rain.

Schooner seen across bow the Spirit of Independence.

By evening the sun came out and the wind was out of the north.

Sails rigged wing-on wing for a down wind run.

The Martha White illuminated with the evening sun.

Clearing skies and the deck of the Spirit of Independence.

Sunset and strategy session for the night.

Sunset Thursday evening with a lone schooner to the right

Sunsets bring out all the cameras and become an unannounced all-hands-on-deck.

Jim Dyson at the helm with the reflection of the sunset on the window glass.

Sunset Thursday evening.

After sunset Thursday evening we sailed into the night keeping watch and trimming sails. We set a new speed record, after midnight, for the Spirit of 11.2 knots. Dawn brought us close to our objective and the finish line at Thimble Shoal. Last year we completed the 127 nautical mile course in 23:44 hours. This year we shaved off some time and finished in 20:11. Not sure how the results will come out, but they will be announced later today and we should place well.

Spirit of Independence.

Traditional signing of the race banner just before the group picture at the top of this page.

Most of the schooners are moored here in Old Town Portsmouth where I am now writing this blog. Come on out this weekend for Schooner Days here in Olde Towne Portsmouth, Virginia and see these magnificent vessels for yourself. Some are open for tours and all are great for photographs. The Schooner Virginia is unfortunately moored in Norfolk.

Fair Winds,
Allen B. Graves

All photographs were taken by Allen B. Graves.

The Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race! Pictures at Dusk From the Deck of the schooner "Spirit of Independence."

The "Spirit of Independence" Wing on wing down wind.

 6:45 P.M.- Received pictures via cellphone from the schooner "Spirit of Independence" who is doing well in this years race. It seems that most of the classes are within a close distance from one another.

8:30 P.M.- Just check the Kattrack satellite system and the "Spirit" is in third place of Class B, just slightly moving in front of the schooner "Martha White" with "Dove II" in second and the "Sally B" well in front. All four schooners are now averaging close to 8 knots. 

You can keep up with the race via Kattrack satellite by going to the link provided by the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. http://kws.kattack.com/kattacklive/Offshore.aspx?FeedID=288

Schooner "Mystic whaler" to stern.

 

 

Sunset and "Mystic Whaler"

Sunset on the bay.

The Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race is Underway! Pictures From the Deck of the schooner "Spirit of Independence."

These are the fist pictures sent by cell phone from the deck of the schooner "Spirit of Independence" with photos by Allen B. Graves. The last E-mail that I received reported that the winds had died and that they were making 1 knot in heavy rain. Hopefully more pictures to come before the sun sets.

The The 2010 Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race is underway with light winds and heavy rain.

A schooner out in front and off the port side of the "Spirit of Independence."

From the deck of the "Spirit of Independence."

The schooners are beginning to separate out of the pack.

If you would like to live vicariously, sail the race and follow the schooners electronically, just follow this link. Fair winds to all competitors and may you all have a great sail. http://kws.kattack.com/kattacklive/offshore.aspx?FeedID=288  This feature is brought to you by the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race!

Portsmouth, VA to Fells Point, MD, October 10 and October 11, 2010

We boarded the Spirit of Independence early Sunday morning and left the dock by 8:45 AM. Captains J.C. and Joy waters were aboard along with myself Allen Graves, Jim Dyson, Faye Bailey, and Whitney Rayl. Joe Elder, David Cartier and Joan Gustafson came along to bid us bon voyage at the dock. Once underway we swabbed the decks and got things shipshape. The day was cool with perfectly clear skies, but little wind. Watches were divided into port and starboard with four hours on and four hours off.

Schooner 'Spirit of Independence' departs- destination Fell's Point Baltimore, Maryland.

My first watch - the starboard - I was at the the helm and it was great to be behind the wheel of the Spirit again. Traffic on the bay was light today with just a few pelicans, and oddly enough butterflies. Before eight bells Joy grilled hamburgers for the hungry crew and we dined with the incredible backdrop of the Chesapeake.

Commercial ship heading south on the Chesapeake Bay.

Joy Waters cooking lunch. Photo by Jim Dyson.

By evening all the shutter bugs came out with cameras in hand to photograph the sunset and work on silhouette pictures. Once the sun had set the crescent moon followed and an incredible celestial show began. The darkness of the bay helps with night stargazing and we were not disappointed. The Pleiades's rose and then like an incredible heavenly conveyor belt the constellation Taurus rose, then Gemini, and later the iconic Orion. Near the Great Square of Pegasus were were even able to see the Andromeda Galaxy which is the most distant object you can see with your naked eye. Jupiter was present and with binoculars most found at least one of the Galilean moons. Even shooting stars were spotted by the crew on watch.

Sunset on the Chesapeake.

Whitney Rayl honing her sextant skills for nautical navigation.

I did manage to get some sleep between midnight and 4 AM. Back on watch the wind was coming nicely out of the east and by 5:30 we decided to set sail. No sooner had we hoisted the sails, the winds shifted around to the north and died. However, as if to make up for taunting us to set sail, Mother Nature did not disappoint when it came to the sunrise.

Sunrise on the bay just south of Annapolis, MD.

Sunrise near an anchored commercial ship.

Dawn Monday morning brought us to the Bay Bridge at Annapolis. We changed watch and had a hearty breakfast of sausage and egg biscuits. From their we headed onto and entered Baltimore, toured the harbor and moored the Spirit in Fells Point.

Bay Bridge at dawn.

Allen Graves at the helm with Captain J. C. Waters in the wheelhouse.

Schooner Racing on the Bay will be reporting daily throughout the the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race with Allen Graves, Captain J.C. Waters and the crew of the schooner 'Spirit of Independence'.